RESTAURANT

OSKAR Bistro : Made in Thailand

Yves Liger

16 August 2017

Since 2011, Oskar Bistro has enjoyed well deserved success at the heart of Sukhumvit. Appreciated by Bangkokians for the atmosphere of its bar, which remains one of the most trendy in the capital with its excellent resident DJs, it is less reknowed for the quality of the gastronomic service of its restaurant located upstairs. Wrongly.

Latitudes has had the privilege of enjoying a preview tasting of the very achieved Made in Thailand menu offered from 17 to 26 august and put together by its talented chef Julien Lavigne.

Originally from the Champagne-Ardenne region in the North of France, Julien gained his experience by spending five years in the famous D’Sens restaurant in the Hotel Dusit Thani, alongside the three-star awarded Pourcel brothers who brought Mediterranean cuisine to the heights of French gastronomy. Armed with rigorous expertise acquired from the master chef twins, he joined Oskar Bistro as an associate partner and consulting chef when it opened. The eleven years he has spent in Thailand enabled him to observe the evolution in the supply of products for cooking, be they fruit, vegetables or meats. “A real craze for the organic was initiated by the Royal Project and many farmers, refusing the use of unnatural pesticides and antibiotics, have decided to join the movement”, he explains. “The gustative and nutritional quality of the products has increased considerably and we felt it was high time to celebrate these new local riches with a French-inspired menu entirely devoted to it, with the same Glocal (think global, act local) approach developed by the Maison Vivin with whom we work together.”

“Made in Thailand begins with a fresh souffle with a goat’s milk cheese prepared by a Frenchman living in Chiang Mai. For the cold entree, I wanted to highlight the slightly sweet taste of the exceptional organic blue crab we found in the south of the country. It is served with a shrimp bisque, celery remoulade and peanuts, which is a nod to Som Tam. For the hot entree, we stay in the South with cuttlefish prepared in the Sétoise tradition, stewed for a long time with tomato, onions and white wine and garnished with an aubergine caviar delicately smoked by us and served on top of the ink flavored with fish-stock. The main course consists of a superb chicken with its juices infused with coffee which comes from the north of the kingdom. Its skin has been used to give a crispy surface that adds texture and enhances the taste. It is accompanied by wild brown rice cooked in a pilaf manner with onions and some good chicken stock. To conclude, we use organic bananas to create a refined tarte tatin and offer mousse-like ice-cream with homemade caramel and lightly grilled coconut flakes”.

A well thought out selection of wine is offered with each dish to optimize the pleasure provided by the Made in Thailand tasting. This exquisite menu, which will be repeated at regular intervals, will undoubtedly increase the fame of the Oskar Bistro among the most demanding gourmets. And it makes us think that the Michelin Guide, which operates in Thailand, would do well to closely follow Julien Lavigne, its passionate and inspired young chef. A special mention is in order for the professional service that combines care and discretion in an agreeable manner.

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